8/29/2010 - Antigua, GT: Ramble On

After my bi-monthly shave and my first hot shower in over a week, I can definitely say that I’m happy to be in Antigua, Guatemala.  It’s been a while since I did my last post and there’s a very good excuse: I’m an idiot.  Well long story short, trying to be adventurous, and find a new path to the next beach I stepped in what seemed to be sand in the moonlight.  Turns out boggy water and sand look very similar in Mexico, and before I knew it I was waste deep with my iPhone.  That sucked.  I could really care less about looking like a jackass (happens all the time), but losing my portable computer was a tough blow.  I turned it off right away, and have hopes of reviving it after some careful internet research.  Right now, it’s in a bag of rice drying.  So, for now I’m going to be living in the Stone Age, and keep a handwritten journal (gasp!), which I’ll transfer to blog form.  Ugh, what a douche.  Next time I’ll try to be more careful.

Anywho! A ton of crazy/fun/wierd stuff has happened since I last posted something about the hated speed bumps.  To start, I’ve visited some really great places: Oaxaca and Mazunte were incredible.  Oaxaca, is the capital city of the state of Oaxaca.  It’s pronounced wa-hoc-a, which really throws me off, because in Spanish there are supposed to be rules.  Like every thing should be read exactly like it’s written.  I guess not the case for this city, so after some silly confusion on my part, BJ and I make it to the city.  It’s wonderful: the market smells great, the people at our hostel are super friendly, and it looks like there’s a ton of stuff to do just outside the city.  The next day, we jump on the bike and see some amazing petrified waterfalls.  It’s really incredible how lost you can get in time, when just a few little springs of water can create something so grand with only time and minerals.  Of course thinking the springs were hot springs BJ and I came prepared with our board shorts hoping to relax in a spa.  Definitely not the case. The water wasn’t icy, so after deciding I’ll probably never get another chance to jump into a spring like this again.  I form a big cannonball and enjoy the swim.  In retrospect it was quite nice. Also in Oaxaca, the worlds biggest tree measured by trunk diameter.  Let me tell you something about that tree: it’s a big fucking tree.  Definitely worth the 15 minute drive.

After Oaxaca, I was ready to hang on a beach and be a bum for a few days.  It’s supposed to be my extended vacation right? Beach it is.  After riding up and over a mountain that topped out at 9,000 ft, I finally made it back to see level and looked for a small surfer town called Mazunte.  What a ride to get there, it rained all day in the mountains, and when we got to the coast we found out the damage was much worse there.  Lucky for us, we’re armed with some kick ass motorcycles that can go almost anywhere.  There’s a few roads washed out, which look to me like a raging river, but local police say that underneath was once a road.  Oh well, for the first river, there was a pedestrian bridge so on our big ass bikes we crossed, literally having people move aside while try and manage.  Boom, success, I’m almost to the mythical Mazunte.  One last river, and Mazunte should only be a few miles away.  We’re told by some random woman that there’s a way around the paved road using some dirt roads.  Okay, no problem I get “go straight and turn right”.  Easy enough.  Too bad they were awful directions, and while heading the wrong way up a steep muddy hill, I get caught on the upper side of a two foot rivet.  FYI, trying to put your foot down into nothing may throw you into a huge soupy bowl of mud.  After realizing I was ok from my fall, BJ and I had to get my bike out.  Not an easy task by any means, but after about a half hour it’s free and we’ve both conquered the hill.  Too bad it was the wrong way.  It really is funny how shit works out like that sometime.  Eventually we go back down the same hill (much easier) and get correct directions.  We find a hostel with a cold shower and pizza.  I fall asleep happy to have finally made our destination.

In the morning I felt a little different.  My insect friends decided to snack on my legs once again during the night.  This is the last time that’s going to happen, if a whole crap load of deet, high powered fans, and wearing extra clothing and blankets don’t work.  It’s doctors’ recommendation time.  I get my B12 shot and google about a dozen different websites about dosages and how to take the shot.  Too much B12 acts like cyanide, hence why you need a prescription in the States.  Armed with a big ass bottle and a needle, I’m ready to start my hardcore street drug taking career.  I guess the correct dosage (just over half a mL?), fill up the needle and I’m ready.  Now I’m going to sound like a pussy, but giving yourself a shot is not as easy as the old youtube nurse lady makes it seem.  But after psyching myself up and puncturing my leg about five times (they were test holes to make sure I could handle it, ok?) I finally succeed.  Now time to take the drugs the easy way for the next month, orally.  Thank goodness.  I am now pleased to report that my bug bites have decreased dramatically, and I still hate BJ because he’s gotten a total of about five mosquito bites this whole trip with no preventative measure.

On to the next modest topic: BJ and I being heroes.  Ha.  I can’t even type that with a straight face, but really we did help out an Austrian friend of ours that got robbed.  Her backpack was stolen from her hostel (open window), and inside was her passport, money, cell phone, and bank cards.  Oops.  I make a mental note to store my valuables away from windows.  Anyhow, BJ and her spend most the next day getting a police report, so she at least something to take back to her Embassy so that she can get home without a passport.  By crazy coincidence, as we’re heading out on our bikes to say goodbye, her hostel owner flags us down and gives us all her stuff back (except the cash of course), but by that time they had left to catch a bus back to Mexico City.  We’re about 15 minutes behind them at this point, so with their stuff we’re determined to catch them before they head out.  A half our later, we get to city where the bus station is and randomly see them walking on the street.  Awesome! She’s ecstatic to have her passport back and very thankful.  She got pretty lucky because we caught her only about five minutes before her bus left.  It’s wonderful how sometimes with a little luck things can turn out for the better.  Like I said: we’re heroes. 

It hadn’t even been a couple hours since I’d left Mexico, and I remember saying to myself that I already missed it.  The border crossing in Guatemala was a hassle to say the least, and just entering a new country with different signs, road maintenance, gas station and people, kind of puts things into perspective.  Mexico was a beautiful country with wonderful people.  Mexicans were sincerely interested in our travels, and weren’t afraid to lend a helping hand.  When BJ’s bike fell over at a gas station, not less than three attendants ran over to help him lift it up.  My favorite example of Mexican hospitality came from Sofia’s family.  Instantly, two goofy white kids were accepted.  Sofia’s Uncle Mike refused our answer of “we’re not hungry”, and took us out to eat some authentic food anyway.  Then about two hours later he took us to his house and fed us again! How awesome is that.  What an amazing bunch of people.  I was pretty lucky in meeting such great Couchsurfers and residents.  Oh, and luckily my parents never received a package containing my ear or finger with a ransom note.  What a nice surprise.  Anyhow, one of my favorite memories that I’ll take from Mexico is this: while riding I got stuck behind a small pickup truck packed with about five young children.  They’re all sitting with their backs on the cab, and as I ride up their faces light up and they all vigorously wave hello.  Then as I pass they all wave goodbye, I return their friendly wave and continue south. 

Maybe, I should reward people who actually read this thing.  I mean really this entry is already at 1,600 words.  I don’t want to ramble on, but since I’m a firm believer in technology; I’m writing these personal thoughts and insights so they can be forever stored on the internet.  Maybe my kids will get a kick out reading these silly entries when they’re old enough.  I just love knowing that that is the future.  Even though I may be a cheesy, vulgar, and sometimes way too colloquial writer; it encourages me that one day in maybe 50 years I can reflect on what a crazy adventure I went on.  Sounds better than losing a dusty old journal in an attic, so thanks for reading and enjoy!

8/19/2010 - Tehuacán, MX: 10,000 Speed Bumps

Another rant on Mexico City driving conditions. I've learned a lot driving today like: staying within the lanes is completely optional, if you're a 18 wheeler or bus you win, always. You should always use your horn excessively, like to change red lights, and you must use your emergency lights for completely normal driving conditions. So, as you can imagine a motorcycle has no business being on the freeway. Normally not a problem on my crotch rocket as I can just cut through lanes, but on my KLR with huge side panniers it leaves little room for error. So while driving in the lanes most of the drivers would merge into me, tailgate me, cut me off, or pretty much pretend I don't exist. I wish I had more hands, so I can flip people off while avoiding other douche bags. Ugh.

Anyway...Mexico City was pretty cool otherwise. Excellent street tacos, and some great history. I took an anthropology tour to get the complete history of the area and found out some amazing things about the Mayans and Aztecs. Man, those Aztecs were effing ruthless.

After Mexico City I drove my bike over what seemed like 10,000 speed bumps to get to Teotihuacán, or as BJ would say taco-tia-cwan. There are some of the most amazing pyramids of ancient times. Climbing to the top and enjoying the green valley view was amazing. What a culture! No wonder the pyramids took over 200 years for the Mayans to build.  Awesome.

One big mistake later I ended up in Tehuacán for the night. The original plan was to stay with a couchsurfer 50 miles north in Puebla, but BJ and I can sometimes be retarded. We got lost in a city called Puebla, but somehow the GPS and BJ convinced me that we were in Puebla, but not in the right state. Oops, what a bunch of idiots. That's what you get for only relying on technology. Oh well. Found a cheap hotel for about 15 bucks each. Not too bad considering I got to watch The Simpsons in Spanish for a couple hours. That was great practice since I have most of them memorized anyway. Smell ya later, Bart!

8/17/2010 - Mexico City, MX: The Death Tunnel

Downtown Morelia seems like it's right out of a book. I feel as if I'm transferred straight to Florence, Italy. Fancy shops, big churches, and beautiful antique architecture everywhere.  It takes a few blocks from downtown to realize that your really in Mexico. It was great being a full on tourist on foot. Having a beer and getting some internet I really feel good about the past few weeks. It's been a ton of fun, and only a blowie from the gf and winning the lottery could make life sweeter. Putting off the ride to Mexico City. It's only supposed to be about two hours, according to the map. Wrong again. 

By being a cheap bastard and trying to avoid toll roads, I have to drive miles out of the way up mountains just to get to the next major city on the map. 5 hours later BJ and I breakdown and shell out the 9 dollars for toll roads to historical center of Mexico City. Now I've lived near LA all my life and I've seen some pretty bad traffic, but Mexico City beats it in a heartbeat. Just imagine downtown LA, with no city or road planning. 5 lane roads merge into one free-for-all one lane death tunnel. Crazy! Anyhow, unscathed and tired. I'm happy to finally get off the bike after a 6 hour ride. 2 hours! Man what was I smoking? I'm really going to try, and get better prepared for the next days ride, but that's another day. So whatever. 

Feeling like a true traveller, BJ and decided to stay in a hostel in downtown. It's only 12 bucks and they give you breakfast and dinner. Sounds good to me. Off to bed to wake up early and explore the 'New York of Mexico' tomorrow. 

8/16/2010 - Morelia, MX: Motorcycle Tetris

I was excited and nervous getting up this morning knowing that it would be the first day without a timetables, schedule, or places to be. I was happy to be back on the road heading to Morelia. I had plans meet up with our Couchsurfing host Paula Escuito. I get out the doors and say goodbye to Sofia's mom, Tere, and thank her for everything and head east. At this point it's sunny and an otherwise nice day. As you might have guessed, that changed pretty rapidly and before I could even toss on my waterproof jacket, I'm soaked. No use putting on the waterproof pants now.  Game over. Just keep riding in hopes of drying out. Well I was close a few times, but to no avail. Oh well. 

Eventually I meet up with Paula and she's nice enough to greet us, and help us store our bikes outside behind her gate. Motorcycle tetris starts, and about 15 minutes later we have both bikes behind the gates. Too bad I've got to climb over both bikes just to get inside. Looks like we're not going out tonight. Ha. 

Thankful for a sweet futon and a shower I drift off to sleep. 

8/15/2010 - Guadalajara, MX: Super Tourist

All it took was half of a very expired beer and some cheesy rice to kick me out of my funk. Lately I've felt like crap for some 'unknown' reasons. (See my previous post about my new mortal enemy: the mosquito.) I guess eventually I just got over it. Alright! Time to stop bitching, and start having some fun. Which is exactly what's happened over the las few days. 

Though at first my days here in Guadalajara were filled with many naps, it certainty changed for the better. In this week I've done some pretty incredible things: I visited this crazy ass pyramid in Guachimontones, drank dollar beers in downtown Zapopan, became a full on camera wielding tourist in central Guadalajara, sipped on some fine tequila in Tequila, and even got some culture in an actual theatre with professional dancers and performers. (Regrettably, no, they weren't strippers) All in all, a great week spent with wonderful people.  

I would have written more,  about random shit like the 4 hour oil changing adventure or the afternoon learning just about everything about tequila, BUT my notes application on my phone lost this blog 3 times, so POW! That's all I can get to for now. Lo siento. 

8/8/2010 - Guadalajara, MX: Hell's Beach and Death of a Dog

When I was pounding away at my iPhone yesterday trying to compile my thoughts for the day. I thought how great it was I found this awesome beach at sunset, and how camping was easy and fun. Guess what? Yep, I'm retarded. Turns out that once night time hit, the wind died down and it felt about 100 degrees in the tent, therefore sleep was too far out of reach. Even for me, and I've slept in some pretty crazy places pretty easily.  

Then the worst part, I didn't even realize until the morning: blood sucking mini mosquitos. I realized there were bugs out when I first arrived at hell's beach, so I decide to use my 100% deet bug spray that you're supposed to use like cologne. I used a ton of it and rubbed it almost everywhere I could. That said, in the morning you could guess that I was surprised to see, no exaggeration, about 50 mosquito bites. I was pissed and ready get the fuck off that miserable beach. I mean there couldn't have been 50 mosquitos in the tent. Don't those little bastards get full eventually? I must have been like fucking thanksgiving dinner to those dicks. Oh well, I'm out. At least they can't eat me when I'm riding. 

I get back on the road with an early start about 9am with a long ways to go. I think it's about 400 or so miles to Guadalajara. (AKA a long effing ride.) Not more than 40 miles on the highway, I see BJ and a few other cars almost hit this dumbass dog in the middle of the road. I continue straight trying to avoid this idiot looking Pomeranian/Fox, but with no use. It starts creeping over into my side of the lane, and right as I'm about to pass it the fucker literally jumps under my front tire. I'm probably going about 55mph when I hit it, so after I developed some pretty gnarly speed wobbles. I let off the gas, and they get worse, so I speed up and finally straighten the bike out. A little rattled I pull over expecting to pull little bits of dog from under my bike, but everything's fine but the dog, so I keep trucking along.  

It's been a long day of riding and paying for very expensive toll roads. Some of which I'm able to sneak by or offroad around, but they're adding up. I'd say I spent about 30 dollars on tolls alone yesterday. Gay.

Anyhow, I finally make it to Guadalajara at about 8pm and can't wait to get the hell off the bike and stand or sit in a normal chair. I'm super happy to see Sofia, and I'm super excited for the relaxing touristy week ahead. Adios!

8/7/2010 - El Dorodo, MX: Race to Guadalajara

Now that I have a taste of how far a kilometer really is, I've been eating them up like tacos de cabeza. Today I left our gracious host Rodrigo after a much needed healthy breakfast. (With actual fruit!) It was much too early to leave because we had a late night the night before, but we sucked it up and left anyway.

Quick highlights from the night before were: drinking vodka out of the bottle in the parking lot, keeping it classy I know. Also, while at a park after hours, Baby Gay and I decided that hopping on the teeter totter for a good 20 minutes was a good idea. Drunk idiots are pretty retarded, but at least we're fun. Oh and of course we danced danced danced. 

After setting out today, I now have my fasors set on Guadalajara. It's where I'm going to take a much needed break from the motorcycle, and hang out with my long time friend Sofia Lopez. So let's see, sounds easy enough. 2 days from La Cuidad de Obregon to Guadalajara.

First day was pretty rough, hungover, dehydrated, and hot is not a good combination for riding on a motorcycle in the desert. Oh well we made it as far as we could before sunset, which was a beach near El Dorodo. Seemed nice enough, sandy sand, the sound of waves, and a nice lightning storm to watch off in the distance. Things were just fine as we set up camp for the night and I try to drift off to sleep. 

8/6/2010 - Obregon, MX: Spanish 101

It's my third day in Mexico, and I can already tell I'm going to get fat here.  My normal diet is on crack with all the cheap tacos and Mexican food around.  I've had some pretty amazing food here including Mexican style Sushi, bacon wrapped Mexican hot dogs smothered in cheese and guacamole, and finally more tacos than you can imagine.  Including Tacos de Cabeza which I assume is probably the worst part of a cow head.  Oh well, slathered in hot sauce and salsa, they're amazing.

I'm currently in La Cuidad de Obregon, where my Couchsurfing host Rodrigo Villa has been gracious enough to let us stay here an extra day.  Last night we met some of his friends and everybody helped BJ and I with our Spanish.  It's been great really trying to delve into the langue and put myself into something completely different.  Hopefully by the end of the trip I'll be bilingual.  I at least know some pretty awesome curse and slang words for now.  Score!

Next up is another night for learning, and then I'm headed for the 9 hour ride to Mazatlan.  It's probably not going to be so bad, as long as we get an early start and take plenty of stops, but who knows maybe in my next post I'll be bitching about that awfully long ride.  We'll see....

8/4/2010 - Hermosillo, MX: Into The Mexican Desert

Adventure is upon me and I'm definitely not used to it. The past six days have been a whirlwind of mixed feelings. Starting up my new life as well as leaving my 'normal' one. 

So, as many of you know I packed up or sold all my worldly possessions, and set out for the southern most city on the planet: Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina. All on my motorcycle, a Kawasaki KLR 650 dual sport. 

July 30th, 2010. The day has come, and I'm as ready a I'll ever be to leave. I'm 25 and I'm leaving a great job, girlfriend, apartment, friends and otherwise awesome life.  Melancholy is setting in as I kiss Nicole for the last time and set out for a familiar destination: Las Vegas. Living out your own crazy dreams aren't supposed to be this hard, but fuck it,  I'm leaving and I'm going to have some fun and hopefully I'll find whatever it is I'm looking for. 

Six days later I've definitely had some fun and adventure. Here are some quick American highlights:

Day 1: Vegas. Enough said. 

Day 2: Zion, Utah had some of the most amazing camping and eternal scenery I've ever seen. I also took the bike out on some pretty gnarly dirt roads. See pictures for hilarity. 

Day 3: Grand Canyon, Arizona. Amazing. Nothing like I've ever seen, spectacular views from the north rim. 

Day 4: Flagstaff, Arizona. It was BJs birthday so we did some bar hopping and saw some really great live music. 

Day 5: Tucson, Arizona. Ran out of gas on the highway just outside of Phoenix. Was able to finally revive the bike on the reserve tank and found a gas station. Not necessarily the most fun one can have. 

Day 6: Into the Mexican desert. This is it. I'm anxiously awaiting Mexico. Supposedly the most dangerous and wild country on the list. Not knowing what to expect you can imagine I was kind of nervous.

I crossed the border with no issue, and already realize I need to brush up on my Spanish. It's a long drive to our Couchsurfing host Ivan in Hermosillo. Immediately across the border it's a place I know I don't want to be, so I set the bike south and twist the throttle and get the fuck out of there. Four hot sweaty hours later it's sunset and I'm just getting in touch with my Couchsurfing host Ivan Castro. We park the bikes in his garage and find his place is amazing. We have our own pool house with beds and personal bathroom. Ivan shows us a drink on the town then we exchange travel stories back at his place then are treated to a wonderful Mexican dinner prepared by his mom. Stuffed and glad to be safe and welcome in Mexico I sit down to think about the past few days and try to organize my thoughts to write them down. 

Reality definitely hasn't hit yet. I'm still in the honeymoon stage, but so far things are going great and I'm feeling pretty grand. 

Buenos noches.